hanpi 半臂

Keywords
Art History
Crafts

Lit. half arm. A sleeveless short undergarment for aristocratic men. From the Nara through the early Heian periods, hanpi had short sleeves, but from the mid Heian period when chōfuku 朝服 (court dress) evolved into a Japanese style, hanpi developed into a sleeveless straight-edged form and were called sokutai 束帯. A small strap, kohimo 小紐, made of the same materials as the hanpi, was tied at the waist. The wasureo 忘緒 (forgetful strap), made of *ra 羅 (gauze), was attached from the left of the waist through the kohimo. Hanpi were made of silk *aya 綾 and ra. Hanpi used for *bugaku 舞楽 (court dance and music) costumes were made of luxurious materials. The *Shōsōin 正倉院 preserves brocade *nishiki 錦, wax-resist dyed rōkechi 臈纈, tie-resist dyed *kōkechi 纐纈 and clamp-resist dyed kyōkechi 夾纈 hanpi. From the Kamakura period, brocade, embroidered, and tie-dyed hanpi were popular.